It’s difficult to dissociate a traditional piece of jewelry from the body, for this is its carrier, its reference and the place where the piece is finally complete.
The contemporary approach often questions this relationship, launching provocations, challenging conventions, testing physical boundaries and altering the perception of the viewer through wearable sculptures that stand on the frontier between the functional object and the work of art.
But what happens once we use the body not only as a display but also as a source of inspiration?
How can the body shift from scenery to an active participant of the creative process?
There are jewels that mark and pierce the body and jewels that don’t even touch it, exemplary cases of utility and ergonomics and also great examples of superficiality and discomfort.
Is the jewelry piece supposed to be an adornment that aims to serve and enhance this human display, an autonomous artistic object or a foreign element that harms it?
Let’s take a look at the body and find more than what’s palpable and visible, an entire universe composed of layers of tissues, structures and information. Colors, textures, shapes, limbs, organs, bones, veins, nerves, muscles, cells, hair, fluids, gestures, movements, senses and sensations.
The inspiration in the body can include formal references, even as source for raw materials. It can be a starting point for new approaches on jewelry making, a search for new areas to place the jewel, a changed perception of the human anatomy and the establishment of different levels of relationships between jewel and body. It may simply be the formal exteriorisation of something that is usually hidden or unnoticed at first sight.
Once again we are here to raise questions, to challenge and not to restrict - we want to open our eyes as we open horizons, inviting jewelers to take inspiration from anatomy in this new Challenge - challenge yourselves!
Ana Pina (Portugal) | representing Tincal lab
Graduated in architecture (FAUP, 2004), worked in this area for some years before discovering the world of jewelry. She’s been developing her personal brand since 2012, after a course at Engenho e Arte School. In 2015 she founded Tincal lab, a work, sale, exhibition and dynamization space dedicated to contemporary jewelry, in the center of Porto.
Áurea Praga (Portugal) | representing Jewelry
Illustrator and jewelry maker, combining these two fields in her work. Post-Graduated in Jewelry Design and Master in Design, both at ESAD Matosinhos. Graduated in Communication Design, by FBAUP. At the moment she is Coordinator of the Jewelry Department and teaches at ESAD Matosinhos since 2016.
Paulo Rui Monteiro (Portugal) | representing Anatomy
Graduated in Medicine (FMUP, 1995), with specialty in Reconstructive and Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, highlight to the title of Fellow of the European Board of Plastic Reconstructive and Aesthetic Surgery, 2005. He develops combined surgical activity in several public and private units of the country. Since always also a lover of fine arts.
58 jewelers from about 30 countries were selected.
On exhibition at Tincal lab from 9th of November to 31st of December of 2019.
Selection of the Jury: Daniela Malev (DE) + Nóra Tengely (HU)
Selection of the Public (voting in person and online): Cristina Celis (MX) + Rita Martínez (CR).
Amanda Denison (UK) | Ana Azevedo (PT) | Andrea Alonso (PE) | Anluz (MX) | Anna Watson (UK) | Ariel Lavian (IL) | Arina Antonova (RU) | Beatrice Marini (IT) | CELIS (MX) | Cleopatra Cosulet (RO) | Daniela Malev (DE) | Daniela Schwarz (AT) | Egle Silko (LT) | Elizabeth Shaw (AU) | Esteban Erosky (MX) | Eva van Kempen (NL) | Fernanda Barba (MX) | Garradas (PT) | Hilde Dramstad (NO) | Jesse Daniel Bert (US) | Joana Varela (PT) | Julie Bégin (CA) | Lisi Hilario (BR) | Lotta Snijder (SE) | Luz Arias (AR) | Mai Solorzano (MX) | Majowski (PT) | Manufacturas Auténticas Xan (ES) | Maria Benedita (PT) | Maria Koutmani (GR) | Mária Roskó (HU) | Marilyn Koch (US) | Melis Agabigum (US) | Mercedes Castro Corbat (AR) | Minicyn (NZ) | Minna Markkanen (FI) | Miruna Belicovici (RO) | Moritz von Coellen (DE) | Mukenia (AR) | Nik Hanton (NZ) | Nina Lima (BR) | Nóra Tengely (HU) | NOT by Vera Pinto (PT) | Nuala Clooney (UK) | [pa de dø] (UA) | Paula Isola (AR) | Rachael Colley (UK) | Rita Martínez (CR) | Rodger Stevens (US) | Sandrine Vieira (PT) | Sille Luiga (EE) | Sofia Eriksson (SE) | Tatum Gentry (US) | Teresa Dantas (PT) | Valeria Rossini (IT) | Veronica Meruzzi (IT) | WEK (PT) | Youjin Um (KR)